QUINCE AND CALVADOS JELLY

The large pear shaped quince is yellow - gold and aromatic and it appears in the grocery section of Waitrose between October and January. Traditionally they are roasted alongside the christmas goose, but if you find a glut of the smaller yellow apple - shaped quince growing wild in the hedgerows, or from an old fashioned grocer, these are better for making preserves as they have a slightly more tart earthy flavour.

• 1.3kg ( 3lb ) quince
• 1.7litres ( 3pts ) water
• granulated sugar
• 2tbls Calvados

Cut the quince into rough 4cm ( 11/2in ) chunks without removing the skin or cores.
Place in a large saucepan with the water. Bring to boiling point then reduce the heat to a
simmer. Partly cover the pan with a lid and leave the fruit to cook for 1-1/2 hours, until soft, stirring occasionally.
Spoon the contents of the pan into a jelly bag, or muslin tied in a cradle shape suspended over a large bowl and leave to drain overnight. Avoid squeezing the bag or this will impair the clarity of the jelly later.
The following morning , measure the amount of juice and weigh out 450g ( 1lb ) sugar for every 600ml ( 1pt ) liquid. Pour the juice into a medium sized pan and stir in the sugar. Bring slowly to simmering point and when the sugar has dissolved , bring to the boil.
Cook for 10 minutes until the sugar thermometer registers 105C ( 221F ), or use the saucer test : spoon a small pool onto a cold saucer, allow to cool then nudge it with your finger: If it wrinkles and clings to the spot , setting point has been reached.
Remove from the heat and stir in the Calvados. Leave to stand for 10 minutes, then pour into hot jars, seal and label.